Draping & Toiling!!

I am not a lover of draping as a first step. I tend to work flat on paper, make up my toile then alter it by draping, but in this case it is a must!

I needed to work out what kind of pleats and how big i want them for my trousers. I have been experimenting with some pleats on my mannequin and here is what i have come up with so far...

These box pleats have a measurement of 6cm... thinking thats a bit chunky!

These box pleats have a measurement of 4cm... hmm, think i prefer!

I have tied a strip of jersey around the waist because i will be making a draped belt for the waist and wanted to see what kind of fabric would work best. I like the contrast between the soft belt and the stiffer box pleats.

Calico is not the best material i could use to create the heavy draped look i am trying to achieve in the length of the trouser. Although i do like the way the pleats have kept their shape along the waist. I do not want the pleats to be structured all the way down the leg so this is why i have only pinned the pleats in around the waist.

I want these trousers to be as long as i can with out my model falling over down the catwalk. Her measurement from waist to floor in 5 inch heels is 125cm, so i am thinking this will be a nice length of trouser to elongate her figure and enough length for the trousers to drape and walk nicely.

More Toiling!!!!!

step by step

Chloes new A/W 2010 Collection

Here is the end result of my design development. This six outfit collection still has the essence of the bohemian Chloe girl, but with a roughened edge. The mixture of texture and length brings a different slant on a typical Chloe range. It has been warmed up for a cosy Autumn/Winter collection suitable for any occasion.

I will be making the trousers on the third figure and the outfit on figure four.

Here is my working drawing of the coat

Through starting to pattern cut i have come across some new ideas so i am changing this original design to make the coat look like a whole and not look as if it has been cut in half. I want to continue the paneling down the length of the coat and cut the coat with a double breast to create a wrap around look and tied at the waist. The length will be slashed and spread to create a lot more fullness and weight. These alterations will hopefully create the look i am trying to achieve.

Design exercise.

Task:

"Research silhouette, collars an cuffs ready for design development exercises in week 3. Pool your research and timed exercises will be given to do in class."

Little bit out of my comfort zone as i tend to work quite slow and concise. All my life from various tutors i have been told to "free up".....hmmm... all well and good but that is like another language to me!!

Nevertheless i persevered, gritted my teeth and cracked on with it. Let my hand to the talking and this is what i came up with... Now remember i am not the "free" type so it is going to take me a while to get into this style.

Here are some of the results of our timed exercises carried out on Friday 26th Feb..

Cuffs:

Collars:

Silhouettes:

Task:

"Research Skirts,Shirts and Sleeves ready for design development exercises in week 4. Pool your research and timed exercises will be given to do in class."

Here are my designs from the exercise. They have been reworked from the initial pencil drawings i had made in the lesson. I felt that this week was a better design week for me. I was able to work faster and come up with more ideas. Here are my best sheets:

Shirts:

Sleeves:

Skirts:

Task:

"Research Dresses, Trousers and Jackets/Coats, ready for design development exercises in week 4. Pool your research and timed exercises will be given to do in class."

Here is my work from the design exercise. I am enjoying this lesson more and more. Now i just need to pull all my sheets together, pick out the best ideas and develop them into wearable garments for my Chloe capsule collection!

Jackets:

Dresses:

Trousers: