Fiber technology

Chloe's black silk-blend Linen beaded jacket. Eye catching lapels bearing a sparkling formation of crystals.

36% Ramie - Plant

32% Linen - Plant

32% Silk - Worm

What is Ramie?

Ramie (Boehmeria Nivae) is a flowering plant in the nettle family native to eastern Asia. Ramie is the Chinese cultivated plant. A second type is known as a green ramie or rhea and is believed to have originated in the Malay Peninsula.

History:

Ramie has been around for so long that it was even used in mummy cloths in Egypt during the period 5000-3300 BC and has been grown in China for many centuries. Ramie was used to produce an open weave fabric called Mechera. This is used for shirts and dressing gowns suitable in warm climates.

Brazil began production in the late 1930s with production peaking in 1971. Since then production has steadily declined as a result of competition with alternative crops, such as soybeans and the important synthetic fibres.

Cultivation:

Ramie is one of the oldest fibre crops, having been used at least six thousand years. Ramie is normally harvested two to three times a year but under good growing conditions can be harvested up to six times per year. Unlike other bast crops, Ramie requires chemical processing to de-gum the fibre. Harvesting is done just before or soon after the beginning of the flowering. It is done at this time because at this stage there is a decline in the plant growth and the maximum fibre content is achieved.

The extraction of the fibre occurs in three stages. First he cortex is scraped to remove most of the outer bark, the parenchyma in the best layer and some of the gums and pectins.

Finally the residual cortex material is washed, dried and de gummed to extract the spinnable fibre.

Properties:

Ramie is one of the strongest natural fibres. It exhibits even greater strength when wet. Ramie is known especially for its ability to hold even greater strength when wet.

Ramie is known especially for its ability to hold shape, reduce wrinkling and introduce a silky luster to the fabric appearance. It is not as durable as other fibres, and so is usually used as a blend with other fibres such as cotton and wool. It is similar to Flax in absorbency and density, however it will not dye as well as cotton.

Ramie is stiff and brittle and will break if folded repeatedly in the same place. It lacks resiliency and is low in elasticity and elongation potential.

Burning:

Ramie burns and does not self extinguish.

The flame is slow burning and burns like a paper or leaf.

The fibre is ash grey and easily crushed.

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What is Linen?

Linen is a textile made from the fibres of the flax plant. Linen textiles appear to be some of the oldest in the world. Their history goes back many thousands of years like Ramie. Many products are made of Linen. Aprons, bags, towels, napkins, bed linen, linen table cloths, runners, chair covers, men and womens wear.

Properties:

Linen is highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat. linen fabrics feel cool to the touch. Linen is the strongest of the vegetable fibre, with 2 to 3 times the strength of cotton. It is smooth, making the finished fabric lint free, and gets softer the more it is washed, However, constant creasing in the same place in sharp folds will tend to beak the linen threads. Linen has poor elasticity and does not spring back readily. Linen fabric has the ability to absorb and lose water rapidly. It can gain up to 20% moisture without feeling damp. Linen is highly absorbent and will quickly remove perspiration from the skin. Linen is a stiff fabric and is less likely to cling to the skin and one of the few that are stronger when wet then dry.

The do not stretch and are resistant to damage from abrasion. However, because Linen fibres have a very low elasticity, the fibres will eventually break. It can with stand high temperatures, and has only moderate inital shrinkage. Lien wrinkles very easily. Linen is more expensive than cotton to manufacture because it is hard to weave without breaking.

Burning:

Linen burns and does not self extinguish.

It burns and chars, burning like paper or leaves, similar to Ramie.

The fibre will burn into a black ash.

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What is Silk?

Silk is a natural protein fibre, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The best-known type of silk is obtained from cocoons made by the larvae of the mulberry silkworm in captivity. The shimmery appearance of silk is due to the triangular prism-like structure of the silk fibre which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles thus producing different colours.

Silks are produced by several other insects, but only the silk moth caterpillars has been used for textile manufacture.

History and characteristics:

Silk fabric was first developed in acient China, with some of the earliest examples found as early as 3,500 BC.

Silk has a smooth, soft texture that is nort slippery, unlike many synthetic fibres. Silk is the strongest natural fibres but loses up to 2-% of tis strength when wet. It has a good moisture regain of 11%. Its elasticity is moderate to poor. It can be weakened if exposed to too much sunlight. It may also be attacked by insects, especially if left dirty. Silk is a poor conductor of electricity and thus susceptible to static cling. Unwashed silk chiffon may shrink up to 8% due to a relaxation if the fibre macrostructure, or dry cleaned. Silk's good absorbency makes it comfortable to wear in warm weather and while active. Its low conductivity keeps warm air close to the skin during cold weather. It is often used for clothing such as shirts, ties, blouses, formal dresses, high fashion clothes, lingerie, robes, suites, sun dresses and kimonos.

Silks elegant, soft luster and beautiful drape makes it perfect for many furnishing applications.

From the black powder era, until roughly world war 1, early bulletproof vests were made from silk.

Cultivation:

Silk moths lay eggs on specially prepared paper. The eggs hatch and the caterpillars (silkworms) are fed fresh mulberry leaves. After about 35 days and 4 mothings, the caterpillars are 10,000 times heavier then when hatched, and are ready to begin spinning a cocoon. A straw frame is placed over the tray of caterpillars and each caterpillar begins spinning a cocoon by moving its head on a "figure of 8" pattern. Two glands produce liquid silk and force it through openings n the head called spinnerets. Liquid silk is coated in sericin, a water-soluble protective gum, and solidifies on contact with the air. Within 2-3 days, the caterpillar spins about 1 mile of filament and is completely encased in a cocoon.

Why use these three fibres for a Chloe jacket?

* To keep the jacket light weight

* The silk and ramie gives the jacket a luxury feel

* Highly absorbent

* The ramie helps control the crease that linen will give

* Over all gives the jacket a great performance, but not for every day wear as it is not extremely durable